kundiawaweekly

This is the end …

July 24, 2012

I’m sitting in Manila with the best internet access I’ve had since leaving England and here’s the final blog entry – done really for a sense of completeness (mainly for me as you will read).

A great walk from a while ago. For quite some time Jeff had wanted to walk out along one of the ridges you can see overlooking Kundiawa. As we climbed up a route we know well, we were joined by a number of kids who decided to come with us. We walked along a path along the top past “matmats” ( graves). Typically they were in the form of small rectangles with a wooden cross placed in each one. Several of them had the perimeters marked by up-turned beer bottles placed in the ground. Some had a favourite cup on top of the cross. We then got out on to the ridge

I walked by myself up to the graves on the anniversary of Lorna’s death. I thought she would have been amused by the beer bottles (although she would probably have said they should have been bottles of wine). I also wanted to do something to mark the day (10 years) and as I couldn’t get to Golden Cap (where her ashes were placed) a different sort of climb was called for. It was stunningly beautiful up there and I remembered how her friend from Australia had visited two days before Lorna died. The friend came out into the kitchen and told me that Lorna had said she thought I would go travelling again. Well, I suppose she was right!

The last bit of my time here has been pretty frustrating because of being pulled out of Kundiawa. Okay, it led to some interesting things – a walk up to a volcano; the extraordinary sight of 200 or so dolphins by our little boat; a trip to a beach that seemed like paradise and an encounter with some sand flies which I don’t want to meet again. However, it stopped me doing the work I came to do for quite a time. In the end it was agreed that we could go back up to Kundiawa and so I was able to take up assessment booklets which teachers have worked on (and which were much easier to get run off down in Madang than in Kundiawa). But, I didn’t have time to take them into all the schools and am concerned that they may sit there and further work may not go on. But the whole question of sustainability would have, I think, hung over my head , however long I stayed.

What else to say. Just that I think that I have been incredibly lucky coming up to Simbu. It does not suit all volunteers but it has been great for me. Oh, and there would have been more pictures in this blog entry but I dropped my camera in the sea. (However, there is some video I’m bringing back which Jeff put together if anyone is interested)

And a snippet from the last night in Kundiawa. I had asked Mama J if she could get me a couple of bush chickens. On the final night she and one of her daughters cooked a very good meal using them (but without any wine or beer to go with them – the liquor ban is still in place). We talked to Mama’s other daughter and her husband. Earlier in the year she taught down in Karamui – until she got malaria and came back home. Katamui is the school that I went to for 4 days – you have to go by plane (or walk for 4 days). They told us that the tradition is that when a man’s wife dies he marries the eldest daughter ……. It was a rather good final reminder of still how little I really understand about the culture here

Elections, schools and coming home

June 7, 2012

The political situation. I hope you’ll find this worth reading – but will probably need concentration (in order that you can explain it to me). Here follow a few “facts” I think. But then the whole thing beggars belief so I may not have got it exactly right.

Last August Peter O’Neill was “chosen” by Parliament as PM because the previous PM (Somare) had been ill in Singapore and had missed 3 consecutive sittings of Parliament. Somare claims he hadn’t and has returned to the country and says he’s the rightful PM. The election was due to be called this June but the O’Neill government tried to delay it by 6 months – so they could have more time in power. The excuse was that the electoral rolls were not ready. The Supreme Court got involved to say this wasn’t legal. The Supreme Court a week or so ago re-instated Somare as PM. Bu then – “The Chief Justice has ..become a threat to national security” said the deputy prime minister who charged into court to have him arrested. (The deputy prime minister spent 7 years in a military prison, I think). For a time there were 2 PMs. Then it was announced that there was no PM. Parliament was recalled and O’Neill was named as PM without any opposition. However, the Governor General had refused to sign the papers to allow Parliament to be re-called (needed because the election campaign had started) and now he has left for Britain to attend the Queen’s Jubilee. Anyway most of the MPs are out in PNG campaigning so they couldn’t attend the Parliament sitting. Does any of this seem a bit dodgy to you?

I’d be interested to know how much of this is being reported abroad and what the interpretation is there.

The system is LTV – limited transferable vote – you put your first 3 choices in order. There seem to be about 40 candidates for each constituency. Generally what happened in the last election is that the candidate would give money to people in the hope of getting their vote. (Much of this money was then spent on beer. NB I came home this afternoon – there were about 80 people waiting around – Mama said they a candidate in Kunidawa was giving out money this afternoon ). We currently have a liquor ban up in Simbu – it will last nearly 4 months. People come in to get nominated as candidates 5 weeks before the election. (It was supposed to be 8 weeks before but had to be shortened because of the government’s failed attempt to delay the election).Sitting MPs are no longer allowed to spend money. (Money is allocated to MPs to spend in their districts.) Once candidates have been nominated no expenditure is allowed. On a Tuesday a headmaster came into the education department because he wanted some money signed for. He was told that this couldn’t be paid – his MP supports the school but the money can’t be released. The head apparently argued and got “bashed up” by supporters of another candidate. I was told this by the guy who is in charge of primary education for Simbu. A couple of other teachers told me about a situation in a school which was set up by the current governor who is standing for re-election. I went to this school a few months ago – at the time the students were refusing to attend. This school has no books, but it has got a computer and printer. However, the computer can’t be used because the teachers who used to be at the school last year put a password on it which no-one who is there now knows. Anyway, two weeks ago the head drove the school truck (donated by the Governor) to another area and left it at the police station. The truck was stolen from the station. The suspicion is that it was set up the head that comes from the area where the truck was left.

Anway, the election is beginning to really kick off in Kundiawa – they were singing right through the night last night – this is not an exaggeration!

Listening to a speaker. The guy with the security shirt has nothing to do with security – just second hand clothes

: ypical truck with supporters of a candidate

VSO s are being taken out of Kundiawa before the voting itself takes place because of concerns re volatility. Australian, New Zealand and PNG police are being sent up here as well. I would like to stay but have to accept that there are concerns re safety. I also realise that nothing is going to happen in schools. So think I might take a little trip somewhere before coming back up here.

Coming home Received recently details of my flight back home – so am really beginning to realise that my time here is coming to an end. So that brings me to visits to schools – and there have been a couple of crackers. It seems to be going to the remote schools and working with the teachers there that I like best.

Visit to Karamui

This visit made me wonder whether I’m living in a state of perpetual culture shock. Went there in February for a morning. This visit was supposed to last 3 days. There are no vehicles except 2 tractors flown in some time ago. It’s quite something to be in place like it – we had to wait an extra day to be flown out. It rains a lot. The welcome at the school was wonderful – a staff of 6. Many images will live with me for a long time. At the end of the day twice a week they have work period. The site of about 100 students walking out with bush knives with blades about 60cm long was quite something. Boys and girls.

Well, you can get posers everywhere

Growing food is really important for a lot of schools

Cooking the school meal

In the school which has about 140 students there are only 5 girls – and a couple of these are the children of people who have come in from outside. The lack of girls does not appear to be because of the state of the pit toilets – which were good. (This is a major issue in some schools – particularly for girls who are menstruating). I asked the teachers why there were so few girls – they were not sure – and suggested it is because of the culture. Out in the forests where most of the people live, girls are not valued in the same way as boys – many of them are taken as wives at a very young age There is no doubt that down there women are still seen as second class. Out in the forest they will hold their face down. I asked about homework – the students do it in school and then walk up to 2 hours home – the teachers don’t really know about the lives they have. I ought to make it clear that there was no electricity where we stayed, that the school was able to run a generator only once a week. But, in the time I was there, they managed to get a new generator going and could have power most of the time –until they run out of fuel. The cooking at the house where we stayed was by kerosene and there was no electricity but it was a nice house.

I ought to say a little bit about the work – I took some resources, did a session on student centred learning and teaching English across the curriculum – taught all the classes for a lesson, with the teachers able to observe if they were free, and then observed each of the teachers and gave them feedback. The whole thing was great – well ,at least from my point of view. It was a real privilege to go and my most memorable school visit in Simbu.

However, I had to make clear to them that I would not be able to come back. It’s really beginning to hit home now that my time is running out. I‘ve told the VSO Programme Manger that I would like to work in Simbu between about 8am and 5pm and then been flown home to England each evening. I am not convinced that he is going to sort it out.

I had heard about man houses. In the past the men used to live together in a house and the women would live elsewhere – sometimes at the back, sometimes below, sometimes elsewhere. I asked what about when they have needs – I didn’t ask this at the school but after a teacher at the primary school came back after we had been given a goat mumu (nice). The teacher told us that until recently the western concept of romance didn’t exist – when they had needs they went off into the bushes. We saw a traditional man houes and a modern one. The modern one was built 3 months ago. By one of the candidates for the election. There are man houses in Kundiawa where any man can stay- although I haven’t been to one. The idea of homelessness does not seem to exit here

Fairly traditional man house – but it did have nails rather than was tied

There is a road planned to link Kundiawa and Karamui – it will probably take years to be finished. Karamui has got minerals and parts of it are very fertile. I gave the 6 teachers a statement to make a decision about – “Karamui needs to develop its mineral resources”. One teacher stood on the “Yes, I agree” station; 1 on the “Yes, but”; 1 on the “No but” and 3 on the “No”. There are similarities to the situation written about in the last blog – real worries about that the changes that may come as a result – plenty of money will be made by some people but with little benefit to the local community (It may make their lives worse).

Having come back from Karamui, I then had another great visit to one of other really remote schools in Simbu. This particular school is very supportive of VSO meetings.I had heard stories about the road and I really wanted to go. Was picked up by a PMV the school had had to hire because the school truck wasn’t working. The whole trip took five hours but the first hour of that was spent hanging around Kundiawa as the school picked up rations. They have to carry out a two weekly trip so that they can feed people. Loads of bags of flour and rice were put on the truck ,then a tarpaulin was put on top and people sat on top –except for me who sat next to the driver!. As I was waiting for them to load up a couple of people stopped to talk to me. One was Father Simon (really nice man – tells jokes, very hospitable) – asked me where I was going – took one look at the truck and said to give him a ring if we got stranded – it was getting dark. Then met a guy called Raphael who used to be a head – he told me what a terrible road it was. We spent the last two and half hour’s driving through the dark and although the last part of the road had been improved – part of it was unbelievable (Got to stop using that word). It was like driving through a sea of mud. Without a 4 wheel drive it would be impossible. At times we got a bit stuck and they looked for rocks to stick under the tyres. Then when the car was able to move – one of them jumped off the back of the truck and jogged through the mud showing where it might be possible to drive. A bit like the re-enactment of the Red Flag Act which existed in England when cars were first introduced –but for different reasons.) The driver stopped about three times to give himself a break. At the last stop I got out of the truck and was surrounded by about 30 people (adults and children) wanting to see this strange white figure. They were very friendly. We passed a bridge which I had been told about – when there has been a lot of rain it is impossible to get to the school – a teacher had told me about having to sleep under the bridge. The visit to the school was brilliant – I stayed over-night in the head’s house – even though they had eaten, his wife had kept some food. The next day’s in-service went really well (which made me happy) and the view from the school is absolutely beautiful. PICTURES We travelled back in the afternoon in the school truck. The journey was easier – although at one stage the vehicle seemed to be at 45 deg from the vertical (which it obviously wasn’t) and at another point it was 45 deg to the horizontal (which it really was) as it tried to travel forwards. The deputy head who was in the vehicle told me that, on occasions in the past, the road has been so bad that it has taken 2 days to get back from Kundiawa with the food. And there have been problems e.g. food falls off the truck and people take it; and the vehicle gets stuck so people want money to help shift it. I am really glad I had an easy ride.

View looking from the school. I had come from behind the mountain on the right

How could I have forgotten this bit – at the head’s house there was a little girl, She wasn’t their child or their grandchild – in all they have looked after something like 30 children, his wife thought. It’s the PNG way.

Unloading some of the rations that had come on the truck.

They don’t have children’s homes – at least not up on Simbu – people just take them in and look after them. Down in Karamui – the place we stayed for 4 days – Jeff met a female head of a primary – Jeff asked if she had got any children- yes she has – one –because she was raped. We went round to her school on the day the plane didn’t come. She had a little child there who she was looking after because there were problems with the place the child was living. If the teacher takes the child back to the house where he should be , he just comes back. And she looks after him.

Here’s a little girl who was staying with the Head and his wife. Hope you like the colours behind her

Vanilla – it then has to be dried once it is picked and changes colour

(We also saw vanilla growing when were in Karamui. Totally irrelevant, I know – but I did make a banana cake with it at the weekend)

One of the great rivers of the world;some time in the jungle; and spending a couple of nights in a place I wouldn’t wish on anybody (although I am prepared to consider suggestions)

April 28, 2012

I have been thinking about how to make the most thought provoking trip I’ve ever had interesting for people to read. Have decided to try to base it on some of the pictures we took.

The flight was extraordinary – jungle as far as the eye could see. Arrived in Kiunga – and … – the guy I had emailed, Samuel, was there to meet us! That was a result right away. We’d (Jeff and I) only booked the flight 4 days before and then we had to try to make contact with someone who could arrange a few days for us. My idea was that we’d go and have a coffee in Kiunga and discuss what sort of programme we could have. Well that was a mistake! A coffee shop in Kiunga! –I don’t think so. Went round to Samuel’s place – plenty of wantoks hanging around. Negotiate a trip with Samuel but have to wait so he can get 2 stroke for the little boat and we have to go and get food for a 3 day stay at a lodge in the jungle

Set off up the Fly River in the boat with two people who live up in the jungle – Samuel had arranged to come down to meet us – Edmund and Paul. Pass dug out canoes and houses on stilts right away. The Fly River is one of the great rivers of the world, although I had never heard of it until I read about PNG. The height of the water fluctuates greatly daily depending on the rainfall in the mountains. Go upstream– turn on to a tributary and then another tributary.

A woman making sago by the river - more about sago - the staple food later on

See a woman making sago by the river side – sago is the staple food .

Arrive at the lodge to see a cassowary on the mud. It has become tame – they can kill a person in the wild with their claws. Walk up to the lodge – absolutely brilliant – was made for birdwatchers – twitchers I – who come from all over the world – but there are none there. Good drop toilet, rainwater shower – which proves to be fine, no electricity.

Edmond shins up a tree to cut down soem nuts at the lodge

Edmond shins up a tree to cut us down some fruit which he then splits so we can eat the nuts – nice. Get bitten on the foot, have something to eat – think of things we didn’t buy. Got to mention here we were going to spend 3 days where our only drink was going to be water – probably never happened in my life before. Then Edmond and Paul go off as it gets dark. We were left alone in the jungle for about 3 hours. Just listening to the sounds of the jungle – unbelievable. And then had a great night’s sleep

On this occasion I didn't get stuck in the mud

It wan't like this every night - one time had sheet lightning; another time stars

Next day – walk in the forest with Edmond pointing out birds – good thing he did because I would have struggled to see them. He was fantastic at imitating bird sounds. Leeches were pretty irritating – mozzies not too bad. Then go and get some worms from the mud – Jeff wanted to go fishing. My wellington boots got stuck in the mud – had to remove my legs one by one and then pull the boots out. Edmond then cut some branches so could walk across more easily. Get plenty of worms. Back to the lodge.

Here's our boat. We only saw one other as big as this once we left Kiunga

This is what the other boats look like

Then in the late afternoon get in the boat and go fishing. Jeff catches something right away. It was called greasyfish –like cat fish – but was to prove surprisingly tasty (and much needed as we hadn’t really brought enough food with us). Then in the evening watched a DVD called Harry Brown. What a mistake! Edmond and Paul watched it as well. I knew nothing about the DVD – it’s set on a rough London estate – lots of violence, junkies, rape.. didn’t really think I could switch it off – but, to put it mildly, it was not the most culturally sensitive thing I’ve done in my life. It was the first time they’d seen a film. On the positive side it did make me think quite a lot about what civilisation means. Although we paid money for the trip, Edmond and Paul basically don’t live with money. They live from the jungle. More of this later on

Really great night’s sleep again. Next morning go down by boat to the nearest village then for another walk in the jungle. We had been warned about the chigas which drop on skin and burrow in. Jeff got them – the marks they make are pretty unpleasant and they itch a lot. Then more worm gathering and fishing from a boat (this time unsuccessfully) and bird watching as the dusk approaches. This time we show them a DVD about people in PNG! (The battery life of note books is pretty impressive.)

The next day we set off for Kiunga in the boat. As we approach Kiunga for the first time we saw a little motorised boat like ours, Everything else had been dug out canoes.

Sago - has a consistency not unreminscent of cardboard. Wouldn't want it too often - little taste - but it fills you up and is quite nice with a bit of wild pig

Samuel tucks into a bit of wild pig - note which bit

When we get to Kiunga there are plenty of big boats as Kiunga is the last navigable spot upstream for them on the Fly

Stay in a lodge in Kiunga. How do I describe it? It’s probably best not to. Let’s just say that when Jeff saw the toilet it reminded him of the one in “Trainspotting”.

Decoration in the room – none. It seemed to function basically as a whore house – it was not difficult to resist temptation. With regard to its other main function we were very lucky. There was a liquor ban on as just over a week before there had been a tribal fight in Kiunga and much of the market had been burned down. We did manage to get some beer which we had to drink in our room – incredibly expensive but we had been without for some time. We were told that when the liquor ban isn’t on, the place is used as a drinking place. This would have been horrible – people would have drunk through the night, lots of noise …probably lots of other stuff I’m not going to write about.

Thought you might like a picture of the view from the lodge–

Hope you can see what they are. WhenI asked what to do with some rubbish I was told just chuck in the garden

May not surprise you that I didn’t sleep too well. Have got to mention a couple of other things. We walked down from the lodge to where a cassowary was being prepared for a mumu (hole in the ground, hot stones). This was horrible. The feathers were ripped from the bird whilst it was still alive- it’s throat was cut but the job wasn’t done fully – they cut off the feet (and it was still alive). I am told,it got worse but by this time I had left.

We also ate crocodile which we had bought in the part of the market which hadn’t been burned down – tasted good.

Got up at 5.45 the next morning to be picked up by Samuel and Edmond to be taken to a brilliant place north of Kiunga. Watched birds of paradise displaying at the tops of trees. Just sensational.

Jeff taking a photo - they loved looking at it

This was fantastic. Can also be sen on PNG's best beer can label

A very similar picture appears on PNG’s best beer can. Then went to the river and by boat to Samuel’s village where they cooked us sago and we got some wild pig – caught the day before. PIC of sago, Sam aneating pig, children and knif. Pretty nice – Jeff thought it was great. Extraordinary to see the children with their bush knives splitting fruit for the nuts.

Back to the delights of Kiunga. Hmmm. At least I thought the shower was okay.. but you’ve got to remember my standards were probably even lower than usual,.

Next morning off to the airport – Plane arrived about an hour late but not really too bad. If it hadn’t have arrived we were not going to stay in the same lodge the next night. Flew to Goroka . Again it was extraordinary flying over jungle. Then went up to a place called the Appropriate Technology Project where we stayed for a night. We were shown around by the Englishman who runs it, has been in PNG for 35 years, employs PNG people and is married to a PNG lady. Basically what he does is to try to help schools with sanitation – worms area real problem as a result of bad use of toilets – they also lower educational performance. He also told us about how women with aids are treated (or mistreated) and showed us the toilets and wash basins they were being given. It was deeply impressive. He also came and sat with us in the evening and talked to us about culture in the highlands. It was very interesting – he was arguing that what people really understand is aggression. Not to mention that the accommodation was great. For the first time on the trip I had an “iffy” stomach. Fortunately the eco toilets proved excellent. Very glad it hadn’t happened in Kiunga! The next day we walked up the mountain –a good walk – couldn’t see much from the top because of the clouds – but, hey, who cared after the experience we had.

So why was it so thought provoking? Kiunga has grown because of mining. OkTedi is there. They maintain the road up to Tabubil – which we didn’t go to. There’s lots of seismic acitivty going on with mining companies. A whole way of life we saw is under threat. On the last day we were there, as we were walking through a village, Samuel told us that the people had been moved there out of the jungle at the time of the Kiak – Australian colonial government. A lot of them have drifted back to the jungle where they live a nomadic style of life. That whole way of life is under threat. In the jungle they are busy – getting food, building houses as they have to move. What’s going to happen if the area is destroyed? Will they become like a lot people in Kundiawa – sitting round with nothing to do all day? One of the things that Samuel said to us is that they need education and to be offered alternatives – not just the lure of money in the short term.

As I’ve, this has been the most thought provoking trip I’ve ever had. I’ve now got to work out what those thoughts are. Hope reading it’s been of some interest. Now it’s back to the reality of what I can manage to do in my last 3 months or so.

Mud, rats and how to be miss an earthquake

April 2, 2012

Up at 5.30a.m to be picked up by a school truck to go to a school I had doubts I would ever get to. When I set off to walk down to education where I was being picked up., Mama J said that she would walk the first part of the way with me. She was a bit concerned because there had been probably 200 people (almost all men) just next to us last night and many were still there in the early morning light. It was something to do with payments being made for a road that is going to be improved – but that’s another story. (Money’s been given before for the road but it went into peoples’ pockets).

Anyway the truck arrived as promised – the driver and security man were very friendly – every school has security. There was a woman standing in the back. It was the driver’s wife. After we had driven for about 45 minutes – and passed a couple of landslides which had closed the road early in the term but had now been cleared – the woman got out and put something in the front. And here’s a photo…

Picture of the school I was heading to

: What is the creature? Any ideas?

The road was pretty good until just before we reached the school where it got stuck in the mud..

Had to jump out of the driver’s door to avoid arriving seriously muddy. Then had a short climb up to the school. Short but very muddy and slippery. It would not have been great to arrive having fallen flat on my face. As a result I have discovered that there are certain circumstances in which it seems I am very happy to take a man’s hand when it’s offered.

There are only 8 teachers at the school – they need two more – classes are about 60 in the size (but this is getting to appear quite normal). They were very welcoming – really pleased that a VSO had come to their school. And it was all done very professionally – meeting with the head and deputy;, followed by meeting with all the staff, and then individual meetings with each teacher, followed by a late lunch at the end of the day prepared by the head’s wife– featuring the nicest bit of chicken I’ve had in PNG. It was also very interesting. All the staff are men. They discussed the role of women in PNG (once the two women who brought in the food had left). Parliament has only one woman MP. There has been an attempt to get a law passed which will mean that there have to be 22 women MPs. The attempt has failed. Apparently Simbu women were against it – on the grounds that they wanted to be elected without any suggestion of them being tokens. The men definitely felt that the role of women in PNG was changing. Their views were probably similar to vaguely enlightened men in the late 1940s in England. (One of the books I’ve read out here is “The Age of Austerity” – a very effective reminder of different attitudes and some appalling living conditions in parts of England not that many years ago)

How to not know about an earthquake. I was on a PMV when I received a text hoping that I was alright. There had been a quake in Kunidawa which lasted for about a minute with things shaking from side to side. People evacuated buildings – the man on the gate where I live told me that he was inside and said“mi ranawe” when he felt the quake. When I arrived at the school I was going to and went into the staffroom they were talking about it and said that three of the water tanks for the school had ruptured. I hadn’t known anything about it – which should give you some idea of what the Highlands Highway is like when you are travelling on it. It was apparently one of the worst quakes they have had for several years – felt down in the capital Moresby with the epicentre at Goroka – not far from here – but fortunately it took place deep underground. The Highway just before the school I went to was completely blocked by a landslide in the afternoon – fortunately I had got back by then.

Rats. Have had a bit of a problem with rats as you may be aware – the noise in the night can be pretty bad but it was brought home to me this morning that my problems are small. Went out to a school this morning and when I came out found waiting outside a head of a very distant school – one I haven’t been able to get to yet. The reason that he was waiting was he had come home to his “place”. He started talking to me – then he looked down at his feet and saw that his toes were strangely white at the tips. He said “ah rats” and explained that there were lots where he lived and one of them had chewed his toes in the night. Had a really good ride back with him on the back of an open truck. He was the friendliest he’s been and explained that the reason he hadn’t invited me out yet to his school is because of the road – I’d have to help push the truck. I said I’d help but he smiled and indicated the mud got up to waist height. Anyway he promised to come and get me in the dry season. Since my concerns in the last blog about a possible drought there’s been loads of rain.

A flight and a theft

March 14, 2012

A short plane ride. I’ve just got to start with this. The most remote school in Simbu is at Karamui. It’s a 4 day walk – a serious walk through some very difficult countryside – or a trip on a Cessna plane. Now by a piece of luck an ex VSO came out to Simbu for 6 weeks. He knows Simbu very well and is very interested in helping it develop. He’s the man who brought rice to SImbu and is revered for it (although when he did it there was an attempt to chase him out – by, I think, Australian rice interests – they had the monopoly). He is particularly interested in Karamui which has huge potential both for the crops it grows (coffee, cocoa, vanilla..) and the mineral wealth. At the same time it’s a very deprived area and there’s a great danger that mining companies will go in but there will be no benefits for the people. In fact the plane could only take 4 of us and the ex VSO who had arranged the trip gave up his place because he wanted the 4 of us to go (including 2 VSOs). As I was waiting wondering if the plane would really arrive I asked Raphael (the guy who knows most about the mineral potential) about vanilla because I had heard the price had gone down a few years ago. That’s right, I was told, the vanilla pods had nails inserted in them to increase the weight (and hence the money) before they were bagged up. When this was found out people stopped buying vanilla from Karamu! I have always been a bit nervous about flying in a small plane but the trip was just awe Inspiring. We landed on a grass strip which was a bit wet – if it had been worse we might not have been able to land. Did the in-service with the teachers – only 5 of them were there so far – this was in week 3 of term – three more were due to arrive the next day; and another two not coming. I hadn’t quite finished when I heard the plane coming back – I had thought from stories I had been told that I might be stranded (and had packed stuff accordingly). Very much hoping that we will go down there again and stay for a few days. The teachers really wanted in-service – particularly English across the curriculum – which from my point of view is great + I was able to give them some materials and I now have to do things like send newspapers down on the plane regularly, see if I can record the news on a CD Rom so it can be used in class, see if I can get some good short stories off the internet…. Could be emailing some people back in England..

Schools generally. Things were slow to get going but things seem to be really beginning to happen now. I am getting to meet teacher s and work with them and it’s beginning to be a two way process. Got to tell a story though. In one of the schools, where things have really begun to move, I had a programme to see some of the teachers . Started with the deputy head who teaches Practical Skills. I went over to find him – he wasn’t in the Practical workshop but I heard a noise . Called out and he came round from behind. After saying hello he then told me that he’d got really drunk the night before (pay day). As we walked into his workshop he asked me if I’d like a beer as he could nip over and get one. It was before 9.30 in the morning (and I did say no). Then when I met a new graduate at the school (a teacher in his first year) – his first words were that the deputy head had got him drunk last night. Having said that I had worthwhile conversation with both. One of the teachers I was supposed to meet hadn’t turned up at school – no-one knew why. But I also talked to three teachers who were really bothered

Worried about water. Ever since I’ve been here there have been big signs up warning of a coming drought in 2012. I’ve taken it with a pinch of salt. (My situation has been much better since I’ve come back. The only time when the water has been off is when the electricity is off – as the pump can’t work). However, it felt really dry about 3 weeks ago. A teacher talked to me about what happened in1996-1997. There was a major drought up here. People were dying. The Australians dropped water. Comparisons were made with Africa and the people hated it, I am told. So…… I know that if the situation got really bad up here we, as VSOs, would be taken out. But it’s a bit of a horrible and scary thought that people could go through such a situation. El Ninho , or the other one, is worry. There has been plenty of rain since then – on a couple occasions have arrived back here never have been so wet – well except when I’ve had a bath

Pocket picked . Went to a nearby school and then caught the pmv back to town. Was going to the local school but had an hour or so to wait. Went to have a cup of coffee in the café. Had nice time talking to local guy who speaks very good English. Went to pay –no wallet. They all said in the café that I must go to the bank – as my kundu card was in it. Cancelled the card – and got some cash. Went off to the other school. On the way back afterwards someone came up to me – asking me if I had lost something –he didn’t say speak any English, though, so it was a bit of a test for me. Told him I had had my wallet taken. Said he knew who did it – he wanted money from me to get my cards back. I said I had not got any as my wallet had been taken so how could I pay – in truth I had the equivalent of £90 in my back pocket as I had taken it out from the bank because, as queuing can take so long, frequent visits to the bank are to be avoided. Found 40 toia in my pocket (about 15 pence) – gave it to him and took my cards. One of them was my English debit card – forgotten it was in it. Fortunately, I didn’t feel too bad about it. I wasn’t stranded anywhere, people were really helpful and concerned, and nobody hit me (whereas in Swindon someone hit me but didn’t take my wallet!). Anyway a bit of a wake up call to be more careful. I have noticed things have been deteriorating in this area.

Paperwork Have been through a bit of a dark period as I am being asked to complete pieces of paper re the monitoring of development work. Thought I had left that sort of stuff behind. At least my protests seems to have resulted in a reduction in what I have to do. And the dark clouds seem to have lifted.

The Prime Minister comes to town. Time for a celebration. Peter O’Neill visited Kundiawa last Saturday

Is this what happens when Cameron visits places now?

Swindon Town Football Club. Have had a bilum made with the initials on it. Am sure supporters of clubs like Shrewsbury and Morecambe will be pleased. A bilum is a knitted bag. Some like to wave the flag; others to carry the bag

Hope you can see the initials

Stop press Went to a school today. They picked me up from the Highway and drove me a few miles to where they are. They couldn’t take me back so I had to get a PMV up to the highway. Didn’t know there was one. Walked out of the school with the school carpenter –most of the stuff like desks have to be made at the school. He was going on top of the “mountain” to where he lived but he said he would wait with me until the PMV arrived. So he cut us each a banana leaf so that we could sit in the shade on the damp ground. I asked him what time the PMV started running in the morning. He told me he had no idea – he just went by where the sun was in the sky and had no idea of time. Quite a good reminder for me of how many people here still live – he did have a mobile phone though.

Back in Kundiawa

February 19, 2012

Fake visit to PNG exposed

During a quick visit to England the authenticity of the blog was challenged on a number of grounds – namely that there were no photographs of me; that I was in the Wheatsheaf not Kunidawa; and that I couldn’t answer some of the questions I was asked. Consequently I have decided to avoid going out to the pub for the next 7 months and to learn how to use photoshop. Here is my first effort. I am pretending it was taken towards the end of last term on a visit up to near Mount Wilhelm. I walked with Jeff up to the Mondio Pass from which you get an extraordinary view of the jungle towards Madang. Almost no-one lives there. However, there is a mine. The men in charge live in huts made of corrugated metal. There’s no transport because of a landslide. People carry the metal for miles. We had seen a group of them doing this a number of times during the morning. So I asked if I could have a go at picking one up. Decided not to offer to carry it the rest of the distance for them.

A failed coup Arriving back in Kundiawa after Christmas. I came across the Indonesian border to a place called Vanimo. Stayed there a couple of days and then went to get my flight to Wewak. However, was not able to get there because there had been a n attempted coup. PNG has, since a court ruling in December, had 2 Prime Ministers at least in name. Michael Somare lost his position as PM after failing to attend Parliament as he was seriously ill in Singapore at about the time I came to PNG last year. He’s now recovered and wants to be PM again. His supporters (from the Wewak area) tried to seize power. They weren’t very good at it – I think there were less than 30 and they didn’t try to take over the radio or tv station. But the incumbent PM, Peter O’Neill, had all flights to and from Wewak stopped at the time I wanted to go there – afraid of supporters of Somare coming in to the capital to support Somare, I imagine.

Coming back to Kundiawa seemed rather strange – partly because there are a lot of people I won’t see for another six months and also being aware that I’ve only got a relatively short time to feel that I’ve done something worthwhile. However, now I feel back into it. Went down to devotions the other morning but had to delay walking through the education yard as a man and a woman were having a fight. This included the woman chucking a rock at her man.

Gandalf the Goat. The meat is not good out here and I eat very little of it. There are lots of goats around but you can’t buy goat meat anywhere. Ever since eating a goat dish in a place in Crouch End not long before coming out here, I’ve been hankering after it. The only solution seemed to be buy one. So I asked Mama J and she said she could get me one from her village and here it is arriving back in the truck.

Am not sure about the significance of the guy lifting his shirt up. Said I wanted to take a photo of the goat arriving

It stayed here for four days and then on Friday it was killed and now I have plenty of goat meat. My reaction to the whole thing was nothing like I expected. Despite my trepidation, I ended up feeling that it had been much better treated than most animals you get meat from in supermarkets in England. No battery conditions; no waiting at an abattoir and the animals sensing what’s going to happen with the smell of blood. Now I will not give details, for the sake of vegetarians, but it was an extraordinary spectacle (and I’ve got photos some people may like to see some time). The whole thing was done with a penknife, pieces of wood and a small fire – absolutely nothing else. And I’ve now got plenty of meat – had some last night – it tasted really good. Wonder how Mama would feel about me having a fish farm?

The beginning of the new school year. Heard the other morning that there’s problem at one of the schools I went to 3 times last year– the headmaster has been physically attacked by a parent. Then I contacted another school to say could I come out and talk to the staff. The Head phoned back (an extraordinary event) and said yes. He didn’t say there would be a Parent and Community meeting taking place. About 6 people stood up and expressed their concerns that the previous head seems to have embezzled a lot of money and things have not been built at the school. People like talking – the basic principle is to start reasonably quietly and then shout for the rest of the time. Some, however, don’t bother with the quiet bit and just go straight into the rant. My favourite bit was when one of the teacher s stood up to shout in defence of the school and the present head – I think – he was talking in Kuman not Tok Pisin – he interrupted his shout to spit buai out on to the ground. (In truth I found this a slightly difficult hour and a half as I had had to get up during the night owing to what could euphemistically be described as a double ender – pre-goat may I say).

The work I am going to do this term – I feel quite focussed – it’s going to be on assessment of learning. Obviously, I am disappointed that I can’t use the method of throwing work handed in up the stairs to get a sense of order but very few of the schools have an upstairs.

Fuel – have written before how the PMV s stop for petrol by the side of the highway and get it put in by can, funnel and tube. Last week on the way back from a school, the PMV stopped by a place which had 8 large containers of fuel and about 6 small ones on shelves with a canopy over the top to keep the sun off. The driver stopped, walked over and then I saw there was a woman lying underneath the petrol cans selling cigarettes. The driver took one, lit up and walked back and got back in the PMV! Health and Safety no issue over here then.

Snippets to end the year

December 8, 2011

Am in New Britain now so no more blog entries until February

1. Creatures. About 9pm a few nights ago there was the sound of a lot of scratching above the ceiling. Got up to have a look and there was a little nose poking through the ceiling. The following night I woke up about 2am to a sound that seemed to be coming from my bedroom; it then seemed to move off a bit; I got up went towards the bathroom and a rat came out and moved away towards the kitchen – none too urgently I thought. Went back to bed in a non-elated state. When I got up in the morning I found the tell- tale signs by the sink – it had been eating the soap. Fortunately the rat is now no more – the circumstances in which it came to an end will probably best be told when I have a beer in my hand. Anyway here’s a different creature –

Seen n my balcony

a preying mantis seen above my little balcony yesterday. Of other creatures seen saw an unbelievably varied range of moths – some very big – on a rainy night near Mt Wilhelm. And have now seen a bird of paradise

2. On the subject of Mt Wilhelm (the highest mountain in PNG). Spent 3 nights there. Did some walking up towards the mountain – walking up to the first lake PHOTO through stunning alpine grassland. The locals believe the spirits are there – couples shouldn’t go up there because bad things will happen to the women. Walking back through primary forest in the pouring rain was fantastic – think I slipped over about 4 times in the mud. Got a hot shower in the end though at the place we were staying

Lake below Mt Wilhelm

3. The place we were staying at is owned by the local MP. Had already met him in Kundiawa and met him again on the first night. Very strange evening. Loads of people came in. Learned the next day that he had been giving the local farmers seeds to grow crops – wants to make sure he gets their votes in the next election

4. Visit to the school there. Probably the most enjoyable in-service I have done so far. The head told me afterwards that one of the staff was not there – had not been there for a couple of weeks had come in the day before and offered to hit every teacher.

5. Learning a little about the culture. The deputy head came with us in the truck coming back – he is one of the best people I have met here and I have met a lot of good people. He was travelling with us because he had been called to go to his village to try to make peace. When we dropped him off he would have a five hour walk to the village. A child had drowned near the village. As a result people were angry – they think someone was responsible – sorcery. The deputy head, as a respected man in the village (he goes back regularly and looks after them)will go to try to explain that it’s not because of this.

6 Attending a graduation at a school. I was asked to go to one of the more remote schools. I wanted to do it the way the teachers do it – it involved a pmv trip for about an hour and then a walk of about 1.5 hours. The head sent his son to meet me.

Started off with two but the numbers are growing

The walk involved crossing a river on stones – managed to sit down in the water; climbing up a very muddy path – needed help doing this as had no sticks; walking along a flowing stream on some stones; and being joined by more and more young people. The head’s son told me about his life travelling down to Madang to buy buai and then selling it to make money up in Simbu (and, incidentally seemed to be pretty “out of it” as he chewed and smoked his way along) Crossing a bridge over a fast flowing river I looked down and saw a boy catching trout with his hands – something I remember trying as a boy in the River Chess – and not succeeding x Okay here are some pictures of the graduation – PHOTOS there were about 8 speakers – (including me – gave them an update on Swindon Town’s progress and suggested that if they are ever in Swindon they should check out the Beehive and the Glue Pot.

The student procession to their seats

I had to wear one of these garlands

7 A quote 8.05 a.m. 1 December. “You’re spak (drunk). Don’t deny it. I’m an old man. I can smell it in your breath”. Please note the time. Now here’s an impossible question to answer (but it’s a pretty interesting answer which I may give in email replies but not on the blog). Who said this and who was it said to. It wasn’t any of the VSOs?

8 Am sorry these blogs are so long but there’s just so much that hppens.

9. Anyway I thought I would end it with this photo. It shows Mama Josephine and some of the people at the place I stay. Without people them like them and particularly the other VSOs I would find doing this very difficult. I’m really looking forward to seeing people back in England. I’m just sorry that Margaret , a 90+ year old lady is no longer around – she had 6 of us round for a meal and red wine on a totally memorable day the Sunday before last Christmas . But above all I am sad that Vivienne my cousin is no longer alive. She had a wonderfully positive attitude to life and it was on her recommendation that I read “The Art of Happiness” out here (and am now reading it again). I’m never going to become a Buddhist but there’s a lot to be said for learning something about it.

Think you'll identify Mama J. I live "antap" - see building in picture

Schools (2) The students aren’t coming to school today and some silly pictures

November 25, 2011

1. Went to a school that involved a fairly hairy drive and appeared to be in the middle of nowhere.

Well we've got a school, just need to get the students to stay in it

As we arrived at the school we were met by a reception committee – friendly enough to us but there seemed to be something going on. The headmaster emerged from his house and told us we could go round to the staffroom. There we were met by some more people and were given the 3 largest bananas I have ever seen. (This last piece of information has no relevance to anything) We were introduced to a few more people – obviously important. However, there were no students around. The head took us into his room and told us the school had been set up by the governor of Simbu who had given money for it. However, although the money is for buildings, the local community think some of it should be theirs. The school started off with 90 students in grade 9 but when they were asked to pay the parents didn’t think they should. Two-thirds of the students have gone away – some to another school; some down to the water (I don’t know what this means exactly but think it’s a major river near here). One of the teachers who was there for all of term 3 has not reappeared in term 4. The school has got no books but it has got a computer and a photocopier. Because of trouble between the community and the school a PAC (Parents and Community) meeting had been called for that morning and the students who were still at the school said they were not attending until the meeting had taken place. It was clear that they didn’t really want us there. However, we were taken into a meeting of the Board of Management as they wanted to know more about their role and the VSO I am working with knows quite a lot about it and can give advice. There were about 12 of us in the room – including the 2 teachers and the head. The vice chair (after the introductory prayer) went round the table introducing each member. It included a representative s of each of the four local tribes. The beginning of the meeting was conducted in tok pisin. The next part of the meeting was conducted with the other VSO speaking English and a teacher next to him translating into the main local language (not Tok Pisin). I hadn’t been feeling too good in the morning but had got up at 6am, to make sure I got there (Had the kus – PNG version of a throat cold) but I’m really glad I was able to go. It was probably the most bizarre meeting I’ve ever been to. And I hope the visit will have been of use to the teachers as I copied some VSO produced curriculum material and put it on a CD Rom for them so that they can choose bits.

2 On another day went off to one of the best schools in the province. Attended a heads of department meeting. The main topic was when to organise the exams. The major factor seemed to be that they had to organise them so that they had enough time to mark them and before graduation takes place, which is usually in week 9. Week 10 is unlikely to happen because after the graduation the students walk off and so the teachers go as well

3. This is the end of term 4 and the new school year starts at the end of January. The teachers do not know which school they will be in next year. Nor do the heads. They hope to be told in December. As you can imagine there is a great reluctance to plan anything as they don’t know where they will be. Apparently during the first week of next term little happens because the school trucks are delivering the teachers to their new schools.

4. Went to a workshop on another morning held in Kundiawa. A teacher was there from a remote school we were hoping to go to on the next day. He had walked for five hours setting off at 3.30 in the morning to get to the road to get a pmv to come to Kundiawa. He couldn’t come in by school truck because it had left the school on the previous Thursday – 4 working days before and no-one knew where it was. We tried to get in touch with the head but we don’t know where he is and he’s lost his phone anyway we are told

Other things that may be of interest. But first here’s a picture. Below is Jeff’s (primary VSO) favourite poster in Kundiawa. Thought it was worth making it a larger size

1. what happens here you couldn’t make up. Met a PNG kick boxing champion (seriously – he’s fought in Australia and elsewhere). The meeting took place as I was walking up to where I live. Have met him since – may in a future blog have to report on my first training session.

2 A bit about safety. I hope I’m not going to regret saying this! Things were pretty strained when we first came here and we are told that they could get pretty difficult when the elections come next year. But, apart from the spak men and steam buddies it now seems pretty safe round here. People are very friendly. I was walking through Kundiawa the other day thinking to myself that I’ve never been accosted here when a hand smacked down on my shoulder from behind. Turned out to be a guy who works in the local hotel and he just wanted to know when we were coming again. If I forget to zip my bag up someone tells me; a guy ran after me the other day to tell me there was money sticking out of my pocket – it wasn’t money, it was paper; and when I was in the local supermarket three people told me to make sure my wallet was secure because there were some dodgy characters around. I suppose the most dangerous time is just after pay day. People get paid fortnightly. After pay day the town get s very crowded with people who have come in to town to get their money from the bank. There’s little concept of saving – when they’ve got money they spend it. I now realise why every other Friday night it is so noisy – you can guess what a lot of the money goes on. The noise goes on until 6am as the alcohol gets consumed. It’s not only every other Friday though. There was some pretty bad stuff at the guest house last Tuesday in the middle of the night – men shouting, woman in tears, screaming – thought it best not to emerge and mediate.

The next entry will be about a three night stay up in the mountains – in an area I have got to go back to . Learned a bit more about how politics works here and how the belief in spirits continues.

And here’s a picture with a question

Well it's a home made catapult but what is it made of?

Schools

November 4, 2011

My access to schools has improved a lot. (Okay there may not be a head or many teachers ….or many students there but hey..).

The teachers. Most of the teachers live on the school site. I went out to the school where Mama Josephine’s daughter teaches. She is in a teacher’s house – three of them – they have one room each. Bear in mind most of them have their own children. Two of the teachers from the school came here for some in-service. I booked them in to the place where I stay and asked them to come up for breakfast. They told me their typical day is to – get up and perhaps have a drink of water (there’s plenty of water up there from the mountains), not eat anything, go to teach, then at recess eat a flour ball (tasteless) , go back to lessons, and then eat something when they finish – very likely to include kaukau (sweet potato) which is mainly starch – all the schools have areas on which food is grown.

A school. Went to a school not that far from Kundiawa (as a bird flies) but it’s up in the mountains. We hired a vehicle to take us up there. When I asked the man who was going to drive us what the road was like he laughed and said well it’s okay for a horse. In fact there had been a couple of land slips

The views aren't bad!

There used to be a bit of a road here

so we could only be driven part of the way and then had to get out and walk for 2 hours. (I’ve got to say that by the time I’d done the walk back as well I was the most tired I’d been from walking for a long time). The walk up to the school was stunning (as always!) and we were incredibly lucky that it wasn’t raining. It would have been a muddy nightmare. There was no hassle on the way there or back – people were friendly and were happy to point out the way. Almost always you are told that you are” klostu” where you are going or it’s a “liklik” way so when someone said it was a “longwe” that wasn’t very encouraging. We were told on the way that there were only 4 teachers there as it was the long weekend – half way through the tem when school finishes on the Thursday. So it was good to get there and find that there were eight teachers there – we were told by one of them who walked back with us that he was happy to stay on for our visit. First of all we were asked to talk to the students

Please write your own caption for this

The in-service I was going to give was on classroom management but I thought it would be more worthwhile to give the floor to them so I asked what some of the problems they faced were. They’d like some teachers desks; there’s no computers in the school; in science they can’t do any practicals – there is no lab; the maths department only has 2 copies of the maths text book; the English department hasn’t got the English books that all PNG schools were supposed to have; books donated by AusAid never got there – oh and one of the teachers who is new this year has not been paid – the school helps her out. The other VSO did a session on behaviour management. As some of the students are in their 20s and others are in their midteens in the same class you can imagine that there can be some problems. One issue (although it’s not behavioura)l is to with pregnancy. The head told us that last year a girl who was pregnant from the school in Kundiawa was sent up here-for the Grad e 10 exams. They last 2 weeks. She did the first week of exams. Had the baby and came back in for the second week of exams. A few days ago I was told about a teacher (and one who has got real potential). She had twins and only had one week off school between giving birth and coming back to teach. Part of the problems with the lack of resources was explained by the teacher who walked back with us. A lot of the parents haven’t paid the fees they are supposed to pay. I f the head tries to refuse to let the student continue at school the wantoks are likely to appear drunk outside the headteacher’s house.

Another school.

This is a fairly typical view of an Assembly area

The picture on the right below is supposed to show some of the crops growing but am not sure if you can see them. It seems that the schools see agriculture – which is a major subject here – as a way of raising much needed revenue. And just a little story to end. As I came home this afternoon there were 3 middle aged guys sitting down (a very normal sight). One of them stood up (just) told me I was VSO e and said he was chair of the board of the local secondary school. He’d seen me there. He could hardly stand as he grasped tightly the plastic bottle of steam in his hand and leaned towards me …